If you’ve got twenty spare minutes and a handful of worsted weight yarn, this little guy is calling your name. This mini octopus works up in single crochet from start to finish — no fancy stitches, no sewing pieces together at the end, just one continuous piece that curls itself into shape as you go. Swap the yarn color and it doubles as a tiny jellyfish, which makes it a fun one to batch-make in an ocean of colors.*
It’s small enough to finish during a lunch break, uses barely any yarn, and is genuinely one of the easiest amigurumi shapes to memorize after your first try.
At a Glance
| Time | 45–60 minutes |
| Skill level | Beginner |
| Finished size | Palm-sized |
| Hook | 3.5mm |
What You’ll Need
- Worsted weight acrylic yarn (any color)
- 3.5mm crochet hook
- A small bit of black yarn for the eyes
- Tapestry needle
- Scissors
- Stuffing (polyfill or leftover yarn scraps both work fine)
Stitches & Abbreviations Used
| Abbreviation | Stitch | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| ch | chain | — |
| sc | single crochet | the only stitch in this pattern |
| inc | increase | 2 sc into the same stitch |
| dec | decrease (sc2tog) | 2 sc worked together as one |
| sl st | slip stitch | used to join every round |
| BLO | back loop only | used on the final body round |
| st(s) | stitch(es) | — |
| rnd(s) | round(s) | rounds are joined, not spiraled |
The Pattern
Round 1: Instead of a traditional magic ring, start with a chain 2 and work 6 sc into the first chain — a beginner-friendly shortcut that skips the magic ring entirely. Tighten the starting tail to close the circle, then slip stitch to the first stitch to join. (6 sts)
Round 2: Ch 1, then 2 sc in every stitch around. Join with a slip stitch. (12 sts)
Round 3: Ch 1, then alternate 2 sc in next stitch, 1 sc in the following stitch, repeating around. Join. (18 sts)
Round 4: Ch 1, sc in every stitch around with no shaping. Join. (18 sts)
Rounds 5–7: Repeat Round 4 three more times, so you’ve now worked 7 rounds total, all holding steady at 18 stitches. This is where the piece naturally starts cupping upward — that’s the shape you want.
Round 8: Ch 1, then alternate 1 sc, 1 dec, repeating around. Join. (12 sts)
Stuff the body now, before you close it up completely.
Round 9 (closing round): Ch 1. Working into the back loop only of each stitch, decrease around the entire round — every stitch this round is part of a decrease, with no plain sc mixed in. Join. (6 sts)
If there’s still a small gap once you’ve joined, tuck it closed with one extra slip stitch worked directly opposite your last one. Chain 1, cut the yarn, pull it through, and bury the tail through the center of the body.
Making the Tentacles
Here’s the trick to this pattern: Round 9 only used the back loops, which means a full ring of front loops is sitting there untouched — that’s exactly what the tentacles attach to.
Join a new strand of yarn into any one of those open front loops, then:
Each tentacle: Chain 5, then work 1 sc into each chain starting from the second chain from your hook — that gives you 4 sc per tentacle. Slip stitch into the next open front loop to reposition for the next one.
Keep going around the entire ring — you’ll land on 12 tentacles total, one per loop. Close the round with a slip stitch, chain 1, cut the yarn, and pull it through to fasten off. Weave in your ends.
Stitch Count Cheat Sheet
| Round | Stitch count |
|---|---|
| 1 | 6 |
| 2 | 12 |
| 3 | 18 |
| 4–7 | 18 (each round) |
| 8 | 12 |
| 9 | 6 |
| Tentacles | 12 total, 4 sc each |
Adding the Eyes
- Thread black yarn onto your tapestry needle. Bring the needle in from the side and out at the spot for the bottom of your first eye — don’t pull it all the way through yet, leave a tail.
- Move up one row and across, then bring the needle out at the bottom point of your second eye. First eye done.
- Move up one row again and bring the needle back through that same entry point to mirror it — that finishes the second eye.
- Cut the yarn, knot it close to the surface, trim the tails, and use your hook to pop the knot just under the surface so it disappears.
Troubleshooting
Piece isn’t curling by Round 4? Double check your stitch counts landed correctly on Rounds 2 and 3 — an off count there flattens the bowl shape instead of letting it cup.
Gap left after closing? That’s normal — the extra slip stitch across from your last one is built into the pattern, not a mistake.
Tentacles turning out uneven? Stick to exactly 5 chains per tentacle. At this scale, even one chain off is noticeable.
Eyes not lining up? Both eyes come from one unbroken thread path — keep your row spacing identical between the first and second eye.
FAQ
Can I make this bigger? Yes — bump up to a bulkier yarn and a matching larger hook (5–6mm works well) and the same stitch counts will scale up nicely.
Does this work as a jellyfish too? Definitely — pick a softer, pastel yarn and it reads as a jellyfish just as easily as an octopus.
Do I need stuffing? Some stuffing helps it hold its shape, but scrap yarn works in a pinch if you don’t have polyfill handy.
Is this a true magic ring pattern? No , Round 1 uses a simplified chain-2 start instead, which is easier for beginners to get consistent results with.
Finishing Up
Because everything closes through slip stitches and loop placement, there’s no separate sewing stage at any point — once you’ve made one, the next ten go by fast!